into 1992 Miata


DOHC 2.5l V6 from the Mazda Millenia/Ford Probe GT.

Initial Walkaround
First Drive

T5z Transmission
Foxbody Mustang Flywheel/Clutch Hardware
Precision PT5858CEA ball bearing turbocharger, ported S trim compressor, vband turbine housing.
Forged Wiseco Internals

Current Status, 05/19/15:
I finally designed, programmed, and machined a billet intake manifold to replace the modified factory intake I have been running since first installing the V6. See pics below (newest pics towards the bottom of this page).

Current Status, 06/01/14:
I found a correct color OEM hood locally on eBay for a great price. Installed an Mitsu EVO8 hood vent screen mostly for looks. I like it, it was cheap, it should help with cooling, and you can see the turbo thru the vent so that's fun. The engine is running great, my electronic det can works great. A few more miles getting the base map finialized and the turbo will go back on!

Current Status, 05/16/14:
The engine is back together and in the car. I made a new more legitimate turbo replacement this time around to hopefully create a more accurate base map. The oil primer pump is installed and works perfectly.

Current Status, 02/19/14:
I was hearing an odd sound at idle once the engine was fully warm, and the oil drain plug was leaking oil, so I decided to yank the engine and disassemble. The ~2000 mile bearings looked not-good, oil starved. I believe this occurred during start up after the car has been sitting a while. I noticed it would take a few seconds to build oil pressure after the engine started. I want to wait until the weather turns warmer to reassemble the engine, so in the mean time I built an electric oil primer pump. See below for pictures.

Current Status, 08/16/13:
The new oil cooler is installed. Oil temps after the cooler have dropped to 180°F on the highway, from ~240°F before. I still have to install a toggle to switch between the two oil temp. sensors, to see what the oil temp is entering the cooler. Engine coolant temps have dropped 20°F as well. Oil warms up quick enough in the summer temps, I will see if an oil thermostat housing is needed once the cooler temps arrive shortly.

Current Status, 07/15/13:
I have about 2000 miles on the setup at the moment, half of that boosted, still at the 6psi wastegate spring pressure. Not many opportunities to drive it this summer, it has been very wet. Great for the grass, bad for the miata. Oil temps are too high in the 90+ days, so I am installing a ~15x6x2 Earl's oil cooler. No thermostat at the moment, if I need one it can be easily added later.

Current Status, 08/25/12:
Rewelded inlet 10AN fitting on oil filter remote housing. Made a new aluminum crank trigger wheel. Still have to let it warm up and see if the oil leak is fixed and crank sensor remains in-sync once warm. Oil dipstick developed an oil leak.

Current Status, 08/19/12:
She runs! Oil filter remote housing has a phantom leak and the crank trigger sensor doesn't like to work once it's warm, so I will remake the trigger wheel with magnets.

Current Status, 07/20/12:
Intake manifold and fuel rails mostly done, as well as some of the coolant routing.

Current Status, 07/09/12:
Exhaust finished less EWG blend-in pipe. Working on modifying the original V6 cast intake manifold for use until time permits making a one-off sheetmetal intake manifold.

Current Status, 06/01/12:
Exhaust "Y" pipe made. Turbo location finalized. External Wastegate must be mounted.

Current Status, 05/29/12:
Engine, trans, driveshaft installed. Alternator mount and exhaust manifolds finished. Exhaust "Y" and downpipe next then intake manifold, then wiring and waterpump installation.

Current Status, 04/09/12:
Oil Pan, cross member, exh. flanges done. Engine assembly next.

Current Status, 03/11/12:
Motor mounts mocked up, still must do trans cross member. Then intake & exhaust flanges.

Current Status, 01/23/12:
Heads STILL at M2Race Systems for disassembly/inspection
4cyl engine/trans removed from Miata, need the heads for mockup

Current Status, 10/22/11:
Heads at M2Race Systems for disassembly/inspection
Engine at machinist
Forged pistons/rods ordered, +0.5mm
Machining flywheel & bellhousing adapter
Starter, trans, bellhousing, alum. flywheel on hand


Most Recent Pics at the bottom!
Click image for a larger view.

KLDE the day I picked it up from JDM Engine Depot, Kearney NJ. KLZE intake but the rest is KLDE. Relatively clean on the outside, but FILTHY in the inside.
Short block disassembly.
Short block disassembly.
More short block disassembly. Overall, surprisingly minimal wear.
Oil pump. Filthy.
Oil changed to a dry waxy substance. I spent a few hours cleaning this crap from the heads. Please change your oil people.
A bad cell phone image of the inside of the valve cover after I cleaned a bunch of the gunk off the cam tower caps.
MSD starter location with respect to the Miata BP block
Flywheel Adapter, Assembled
Flywheel Adapter, Exploded View
Ford starter plate, starter, and flywheel adapter. The starter will be rotated counterclockwise from this orientation.
MSD Ford starter, showing the clearance needed on the V6 Block (Block in Blue)
MSD Ford starter showing clearance. The rectangular area is the VIN plate on the side of the block, for reference
Ford aluminum flywheel, T5z input shaft, and bellhousing adapter. Raw Faro V6 pointcloud data shown for reference.
Preliminary Intake Manifold Layout. There would be a single large plenum on top, like an LS engine.
This would be a dual plenum.
Single plenum with longer runners. This is close to the OEM style intake manifold.
85.0mm Wiseco Pistons, 21mm pin
Wiseco/K1 Connection Rod,
ARP2000 bolts
Rear Crank Adapter, C'bores
Mustang flywheel bolts to this.
Rear Crank Adapter. Drilling holes for Mustang flywheel. These will be form tapped.
Front Crank Adapter. This bolts to the V6 crank.
Form tapped holes. The two crank adapters bolt together.
Both Crank Adapters, rear on left, front on right
Other side of each Crank Adapter.
Attached to the crank.
Rear Crank Adapter attached to the Mustang Flywheel. I had to cut down the bolts.
Milling the starter clearance. Sharpie line shown to make sure I am in the right spot!
Starter Clearance done.
Close up shot of the starter clearance.
Bellhousing Adapter on one of Jesel's many CNC machines.
Bellhousing Adapter, rear view. The Trans attaches to this side.
Front view of Bellhousing Adapter. This side goes up against the V6 block. Note V6 dowel c'bores.
Bellhousing Adapter attached to the V6.
Mustang Starter Index Plate. This locates the starter.
Starter attached and tucked up nicely against the engine block.
Gutted mockup T-5 trans placed into position. Faro arm in the background, instrumental in this project!
Ignition components and a larger boost control solenoid from DIYAutotune.
New Precision Turbo PT5858CEA with billet compressor wheel and dual ceramic ball bearings.
Antisurge T04S cover.
Black ceramic coated vband turbine housing. .82A/R
Left motor mount mockup.
Left motor mount tacked together.
Left motor mount.
Right motor mount. This part is welded onto the subframe.
Right motor mount assembly.
Right motor mount installed, tacked onto subframe.
Right motor mount fully welded.
Right motor mount tacked next to the OEM mount. This has to be cut out for starter clearance...
Right motor mount slotted and OEM mount roughly cut. More needs to be cut later.
Right motor mount.
OEM distributor modified to be a single pole Cam Angle Sensor. There's a magnet on the back side of that aluminum wheel. Jesel part.
CAS location.
CAS assembly.
Valves from below!
Engine mocked up.
Engine mocked up.
Engine mocked up.
Exhaust flanges.
Exhaust flange on the head.
Starter installed.
Using Flyin' Miata's stainless subframe supports as part of the custom Transmission Crossmember.
Transmission crossmember.
Crossmember installed with Energy Suspension polyurethane mount.
Beginning the custom oil pan. Plate is .125" steel. Sump is .065" steel.
Oil pan. I am reusing the rear portion of the OEM oil pan rail due to the small curve by the rear main seal.
Oil pan.
Oil pan with small portion of OEM oil pan rail.
Oil Pan almost done. I still have to weld on the inlet -12AN inlet fitting for the oil pump. And drill a few holes larger...
Oil pan sump, rear view showing the drain plug.
Oil pan sump with extra clearance via B.F.H. (Big F***ing Hammer).
Inside the sump. Pickup screen, baffle, brackets sourced from Stef's Fabrication.
Sump screen courtesy Stef's Fabrication. I may have the experts at Stef's redo the entire pan in the future.
External oil sump pickup. -12AN
Front view of external sump pickup. Still have to attach the stainless braided line. Tight clearance! This is a -12AN line. Inner dia. matches OEM sump pickup size.
Turbo oil drain line, -10AN
Moroso universal engine oil dipstick. Almost a perfect fit!
Engine oil dipstick. Still have to trim about 1.5" off the top, but can't ask for a more bolt-on fitment.
Dipstick at the oil pan. Uses a compression fitting to seal and allow vertical fitment.
External Sump Pickup -12AN stainless braided line installed.
External Sump Pickup -12AN stainless braided line installed.
External Sump Pickup -12AN stainless braided line installed.
Crankshaft Adapters after heat treatment, installed.
Bellhousing Adapter and Aluminum Flywheel installed.
Subframe notch for starter clearance.
Subframe notch and motor mount
Ready for install!
1.5" notch added to new Aluminum Radiator for extra room between fans and engine.
Radiator with slim fans installed inside radiator support.
Mechanical water pump blockoff plate with OEM O-ring.
100amp single wire alternator partially installed.
Original Power Plant Frame modified to fit the T-5 transmission. Minimal modifications needed, very simple.
Forward mount location for PPF right next to the transmission mount.
T-5 shifter location.
Offset shifter using two mustang shifters grafted together.
Offset shifter.
Offset shifter test fit.
Clears the radio surround & other interior trim pieces.
Offset shifter from below and the original PPF with clearance cut for the front driveshaft universal joint.
Custom 3" Aluminum driveshaft by V8Roadsters.
Driveshaft installed.
680cc (65lb/hr) LS7/Corvette style "shorty" injectors from Deatschwerks.
Injector harness by Performance Systems Integration.
Pierburg/BMW electric waterpump.
Arduino circuit board to control electric waterpump.
Intake flanges...
Initial Solidworks model of exhaust manifolds.
Driver's side shown in Solidworks assembly.
First exhaust collector.
Completed manifolds.
Completed manifolds. Right manifold on top, left manifold on bottom.
Manifolds installed.
Left/driver's manifold. Heatshield required for belt.
Right/passenger's manifold. Heatshield required for the fuel lines.
"Y" Pipe mocked up.
Smooth liner flex bellows added to account for thermal expansion and vibration. Another may be added to opposite side.
Y-pipe with bellows.
Precision PT5858CEA turbo mocked up.
Compressor inlet! Turbo rotated slightly for airfilter clearance.
Scrap section of 3" pipe showing the beginning of the downpipe.
Manifold Y-pipe support brace.
3" downpipe almost done. Still need to blend in the external wastegate pipe.
Precision 46mm external wastegate actuator.
Upper and lower downpipe portions connected with a Vibrant V-band flange. View from front left wheel well.
V-band flange viewed from above.
Rear portion of downpipe showing clearance to cross member. 3" OD Stainless.
Lower downpipe portion being welded
Both downpipe sections clamped together
Complete downpipe.
Fully stainless exhaust bits! Still have to do the external wastegate blend in pipe.
Solidworks model of the oil supply manifold.
Rapid prototype (black ABS plastic) and final aluminum oil supply manifold.
Rapid prototype oil supply manifold test fit
Final aluminum oil supply manifold installed
Oil supply manifold and downpipe clearance.
Remote oil filter mount partly finished.
Shifter handle with my awesome Voodoo shift knob.
Machining the original KL intake manifold for the larger Corvette style fuel injectors. I will be using this manifold while I build my sheet metal intake.
Factory intake manifold cut for hood clearance. Throttle body flange location tacked into place.
Throttle body location test fit. 65mm throttle body from Ford Crown Vic scored off ebay for $40 with variable TPS. Perfect fit for original throttle cable.
New plenum cuts made.
New plenum cuts.
New plenum welded together and all the holes welded shut.
Intake manifold done. Clears the rats nest of crap on that side of the engine bay. Miracle.
Picture of inside new plenum
New custom fuel rails and standoffs. Heights and offsets are different from rail to rail...thanks Mazda :(
Test fit fuel rails. Perfect fit with the Deatschwerks 680cc Bosch injectors!
Still need to weld the 6AN fittings onto the end of each rail. 6AN because that's what the car is already plumbed for. Anything larger will require redoing the entire fuel system from the tank.
Perfect fit! Actually I may mill another .100" off the standoffs. Dunno yet.
Factory coolant pipe and thermostat housing flipped upside down. 1.25" aluminum pipe welded to outlet and Miata coolant temp sensors attached.
Injectors installed with wiring harness.
Crank trigger wheel adapter.
BMW electric waterpump installed.
Engine bay as of 8/19/12.
No turbo until engine is broken in.
Precision PT5858 waiting!
New aluminum crank trigger wheel. DIYAutotune hall effect sensor was losing sync with the steel Trackspeed Engineering trigger wheel once warm.
Rare-earth magnet slots milled using 1/8" dia endmill.
Center drill.
Cosmetic fancy-ness.
OD machined.
Comparison with the old trigger wheel.
New larger alternator pulley installed to lower peak RPMs. With the gold pulley, at 8000 engine rpm the alternator was spinning higher than the recommended max speed.
Turbo to Intercooler pipe and EWG dump pipe finished.
Towp-down view from engine bay showing EWG dump, turbo oil drain line, etc.
Intercooler pipe and EWG dump installed. Side view.
Intercooler pipe and EWG dump installed. Front view.
Engine as it sits Jan 25, 2013. I am still working on a new fabricated intake manifold.
Oil temps were too high just cruising on the highway. Here are the Earl's 15x6x2 16row Oil Cooler and a temp sensor mount block I made that will hopefully solve the problem.
Traditional Miata oil cooler locations like the fender wells or above the intercooler are occupied with other stuff, so I am trying the cooler here, below the front bumper 'mouth'.
I cut a feed hole and built simple shrouds to seal the air pressure from the 'mouth' as best I could. Nothing hangs below the front lip.
View from the side showing the riveted aluminum shrouds.
The oil cooler (below) seals up against the bottom of the intercooler.
View of the feed hole cut into the factory shroud.
I milled a little off the sides of the temperature sensor housing to make it look a little nicer.
Oil cooler installed.
A view up towards the driver's side fender.
Temperature sensor housing installed. Enough room here for an oil thermostat housing when needed.
The oil cooler & lines are completely above the bottom level of the car.
While waiting for spring, I decided to build this electric oil primer pump. This will allow me to prime the engine before starting after the car has been sitting for a while.
Oil Priming Pump modeled in Solidworks.
The pump itself is a Honda RC51 main oil pump sourced off eBay. A nice Gerotor pump for ~$15 shipped.
Internal view of the two piece pump housing.
External view of the pump housing.
All the pump components before assembly. The electric motor is for a small Razor scooter, also off eBay ~$23 shipped.
#24 chain to drive the pump. Both the pump and the motor came with the sprockets. 3D printed chain guard.
Rear side of the pump showing the -8AN oil fittings.
Assembled oil primer pump.
View showing the Honda Gerotor pump inside the housing.
Temperature sensor housing modified with the addition of a Vibrant -8AN check valve. The oil primer pump will supply oil here.
Oil primer pump installed! -8AN braided lines. The supply to the pump comes from the oil drain plug.
Jig for a tubular turbine replacement, for tuning the car naturally aspirated.
Temporary tubular turbine replacement.
Electronic "Det Can" to help hear detonation.
Det can installed onto the factory knock sensor boss. A Bosch knock sensor attaches to this boss.
Something is missing!
Turbine replacement installed. Time to make a better base map, then MOAR BOOST!
EVO8 hood vent laid out on a spare OEM hood.
First layer removed.
Second layer removed.
I want to keep as much factory bracing as possible at the moment.
Factory bracing painted black.
EVO8 hood vent installed (spare hood on top of the car)
Vent installed
Vent installed
Underside view of the vent installed. I was able bolt the vent directly to the hood using 4 of the 6 Mitsu. studs, after lengthening 3 of them. Simple straight piece of aluminum with foam tape used on the other two studs.
Turbo reinstalled!
Lots of paper/cardboard mockups to verify fitment of the new intake manifold.
Top side of the mid plate machined.
Bottom side of the mid plate.
Mid plate mocked up. Barely clears, but clears nonetheless!
Runners being machined.
Runners being machined. The fuel injector bosses can be seen here.
Runner side profiles machined.
Machining the ports and flanges.
Runners almost finished, fuel injector holes and fuel rail mounts are all that's left at this point.
In order to create the air inlets for the runners, a steel die was machined and sections of stainless pipe were cut.
I pressed the stainless steel tube sections onto the steel die.
Smooth air inlets ready for welding.
The welded/completed air inlet runners laid out onto the mid plate.
Machining the inside of the upper plenum cover.
The upper plenum cover being machined.
Upper plenum cover finished.
Complete intake mocked up before assembly.
A shot of the stainless flange used to connect the throttle body to the plenum.
Complete stainless pipe that connects the throttle body to the plenum.
Final assembly. This shot shows the access holes allowing a socket extension to pass thru the upper flange.
Runners and fuel rails installed.
Mid plate and air inlets installed
Upper plenum partily installed and fabricating the throttle body pipe
Intake manifold completely installed as it sits 05/15/15
I couldn't help but add my logo to the TiAL Q BOV.
Santa got me a Nardi steering wheel for Christmas. I didn't like the cheap accordian covers supplied with most adapter hubs so I printed a smooth one.
Inside of my hub cover. The wire is the ground for the horn.

  Last updated: 06/01/14